Indians know how to throw a good party, and the Pushkar Camel Fair is no exception. Days before the “official” opening there is the frantic activity of vendors setting up their stalls. A ready made audience of 5,000 camels,2,000 horses and about 50,000 tourists(the majority of them Indian) requires lots and lots of food,feed and entertainment.

Our favorite food stall selling samosa, pakora, and a variety of savory snacks is located  at the entrance to the fairgrounds. On the first day we stop by for a quick samosa and pay 20 rupees (about 33 cents). G sees an Indian family seated inside and asks them in Hindi (he’s getting pretty good at it) how much they paid. When he finds out that they only paid 15 rupees,G renegotiates the price we pay. Stunned and annoyed at the same time, our money is reluctantly returned.

Our favorite samosa stall

Our reputation is redeemed by complimenting the samosa man with smiles and a thumbs up sign. When I order another samosa AND the pakora, he smiles broadly and the grin spreads to all the cooks.

After four hours of filming camels (and losing my sun shade for my lens) and deal making, we stop at the stall again on our way out. This time I whip out my little water spray bottle and start spraying myself to get a bit of relief from the oppressive heat. Soon everyone wants a spritz and I go around to each one of the cooks giving a short spray. With a bevy of warm good byes we promise to return the next day.

The activity of buying/selling camels grows to a crescendo the day before the fair. Groups of turbaned men,( pink, orange or multicolored) sit squatting on the ground bargaining, yelling and strutting their camels. It can become loud and aggressive and sometimes it seems like a fight might break out. Then either the buyer walks away or buyer and seller stand up and shout something, which binds the deal, and money is exchanged.

The carnival atmosphere is infectious. Indian families from all over the country come to the fair to enjoy themselves and buy kitschy souvenirs. There are tribals, middle class Indians, Saddhus, and everything in between. As many people want to take our picture as we do theirs.

Nothing can compare to the riot of colors, exotic textiles,and the eagerness (often too much so) of people wanting to know everything about you.