December 7

We’re in Goa now, worlds away from the craziness that is India.  Days pass like molasses slowly dripping from a jar. Our activities are walking the beach,swimming and EATING. When a long time Goa traveler tells us about the “best place to eat in Agonda”, we are right on it.

Francis was a cook in the Merchant Marines for 17 years,and now has his own restaurant, TIGER CANISHA.

TIGER CANISHA Restaurant in Agonda

From the moment we bite into his Fish Ambotik (flavored with tamarind, dried mangosteen rinds and exotic spices) we are hooked.  We now have a purpose.  Each day Gerald and I mull over the choices of Goan specialties, and decide what we will eat the next day. Sometimes we just let Francis improvise, always with incredible results.

Francis at work

Agonda is a small, tightly knit village of fisherman, and families cater to the influx of tourists by opening up their homes as restaurants and guesthouses. Nothing much happens, so when I see Alan (the one who told us about TIGER) he says “The word is out that you two eat at Francis’ for lunch AND dinner ever day!” 

It is  our last day and Francis tells us, “Tonight I’m making you a surprise”.  Our stomachs are so full after eating ten of his meals, but we must soldier on.  Lunch was a wonderfully spicy chicken cafreal, and I watched as he prepared the paste. (taking notes, of course!)

The cafreal paste

The look of pride and joy on his face is touching as he comes out with first, fish head soup, then whole grilled fish with pumpkin from his garden (flavored with caper berries and chilies), and the piece de resistance, a whole lobster. Food is my religion and  Francis is certainly the saint of Agonda.

The last supper with Francis

The official Patron Saint of Goa is St. Francis Xavier, a Spanish priest who traveled throughout India, China and Japan converting the “pagans, in 1543, when he died in China, Portuguese merchants gave him last rites and buried him in slaked lime.  According to legend, when a Jesuit brother later disinterred him, the body had not disintegrated, and when his finger was cut, blood oozed out. This was reported to the Vatican and the Pope made him a saint.

SE Cathedral where the glass case with St Francis is displayed

Pieces of his hand were distributed around the world for their healing power, and one fervent devotee bit off a toe.  He is now displayed in the church in Old Goa, and every ten years there is an”Exhibition”of him in his silver lined glass case with his exposed feet.  This year is just such a year and we are determined not to miss this event. Although it may be hard to believe, after a week of relaxing nothingness, we actually yearn for some action; and India knows how to put on a festival.

Entrance to the “exhibition”

Line of pilgrims waiting to get into the cathedral

Pilgrims wait on line for hours to get into the church.  We sneak around the back and find an entrance, unguarded, onto the church grounds.  Although we can’t kiss the grave, we do get to see him from afar.  Meanwhile, outside there is a carnival going on, replete with Ferris Wheel.  An exhibition hall has been set up, and each religious group has their own information booth.  My favorites have  a cardboard figure of Jesus on a motorbike, with the inscription “I will carry you on eagle wings”: and a standing cardboard Jesus with “I Miss You”.

“I miss you”

“I will carry you on eagle wings”

Goa is 75% Catholic, but there are Hindus and Muslims who also come to experience the spirit of St Francis, and stalls line the streets leading up to the church, selling everything from food to bras.

Off to Kerala tomorrow .