Pouring the holy Ganges water and doing puja

Ritual bathing in the Ganges

Haridwar is a  place that brings out the best that India has to offer. Peaceful and spiritual are the words that come to mind. It is a holy city situated in the foothills of the Garhwal  Himalaya and close to the source of the Ganges River. The rushing green waters tumble out of the mountains,carrying India’s life source through to Varanasi towards the Bay of Bengal .Pilgrims come to place the ashes of their loved ones in the river,or to bathe in the hallowed waters of Maa Ganga. Mother India is a loud country, from Bollywood music to loudspeakers chanting vedas and mantras in shrines.Other than ashrams, which  can also be quite noisy, there are few places where you can walk the streets and hear yourself think. I’ve been to Varanasi, and since it is a cremation site as well as the holiest city in India,the intensity of that place can be overwhelming. Here I can inhale slowly and breathe freely.

This is not a tourist town and is geared toward Hindus fulfilling their religious obligations.  When you see Indians traveling, they are always in groups, because they travel with their extended family- parents, children, and  both sets of grandparents . Privacy is an unheard of concept here, and certainly not one to be desired.To be alone translates to loneliness and one is pitied for not having friends and family. The first question asked of Westerners is “Are you married?” and if not, “Why not?”Men stroll the streets arm in arm, without the contraints of seeming unmanly. I feel that this strong connectedness is what gives people a feeling of optimism and joy. That combined with their belief in reincarnation-that the next life can be free of this life’s challenges if one has accumulated enough good Karma.

Our hotel was formerly a private home, or haveli, built in 1916 by a wealthy Hindu family.We are greeted with a necklace of tulsi wood and a list of the included activites at the hotel.

Havan at Haveli’s Ghat 8:00 am.     ( prayer service with a pandit, or priest)

Astrologer/Palmist for consultation  3:30 pm.

Evening Tea                           4:30 pm.   ( a chance to socialize with the other Hotel guests)

Evening Aarti at Haveli Ghat.    4:45 pm ( short prayer service with lighted candleabras)

Escorted Evening Aarti at Har ki Pauri. 5:00 pm

Bhajan Sandhya. 7:30-8:30 pm.         ( Devotional music and chanting with tabla and    harmonium)

There is a mix of guests staying at the hotel-Indians, non-resident Indians, and foreigners. Lisa comes from N. Carolina and is here to scatter the ashes of her deceased husband who died suddenly of a heart attack at the age of fifty,and to perform the traditional funeral rites he requested. We notice her sitting alone in a corner and invite her to join us at Tea Time.  A Gujarati couple from Ahmedabad , with their two grown sons are  sharing the table with us.  They are also here to scatter ashes and do the ritual bathing in the Ganges. The elder son, 26 years old, is chewing a big wad of paan (red beetle nut)  and his teeth and lips are stained a disgusting red.  I can’t bear looking at him so I concentrate my attention on the parents. At the morning ritual the mother guided us along and showed us when we should take the holy water, wash our hands,inhale the smoke, and in general try to follow the prescribed rituals.

At 5:00 we gather in the lobby in front of the reception desk to wait for the Brahmin who will escort us to the evening Ganga Arti.  Chanting, fire, pouring of milk in the Ganges, bells clanging- all of this is part of this  daily evening ritual which takes place on innumerable rows of steps, known as ghats,  on the banks of the Ganges. All to sing praises of Maa Ganga. Lisa, Gerald and I, the Amdavadi family,  an Indian family living in Minnesota with their two grown sons from Chicago and New Jersey, and last but certainly not least, the Brazilian man,Claudio and his twelve year old daughter, Gabriele,  are patiently waiting in the lobby the hotel. Gabriele looks like an 18 year old super model and is spinning around on her new Hoverboard that she bought in Delhi. At first it seems an unwieldy group, as we are more used to doing things on our own. However, when we arrive ,we are escorted to a special section with prime viewing position, and we truly appreciate the extra attention.Mrs. Amdavadi helps me stay firmly on the slippery steps by the river. One false move and the fast moving current will pull me away in a New York minute.  Chains are fastened along the banks as an anchoring device to hold onto while going in the water. Lisa and I decide to purchase “diyas”, the small banana leaf boats filled with marigolds, roses and a ghee candle, as an offering of prayer for the departed and those loved ones in need of healing. Paan mouth’s younger brother offers to take photos with his Iphone as we place them in the water.
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Diyas or prayer offings

India is a country of paradox and contrast.Ancient traditions are passed down through the generations-but along the way they adapt to the modern times, sometimes too much so.  During the evening services, temples and shrines  light up with garish neon lights,spinning in circles,shooting out like fireworks- a mini Las Vegas. And the cell phones! Nothing is too holy or sacred that it should disturb or disrupt a call. Priests are busily stoking ashes, or  cracking coconuts as part of a solemn ceremony with one hand,and with the other they are on the phone.  I saw this with marriage ceremonies, blessing rituals- even my hairdresser while washing my hair ,continued talking non stop to her boyfriend for over an hour. “Customer hair wash” she yelled into the phone as she massaged my head vigourously with her free hand. I went for my Astrology consultation at the hotel and the young man told me he is studying for an MBA, but he comes from a line of astrologers through the male line, and he wants to continue using his knowledge and gift.  He told me we could SKYPE if I had any questions for him when I got home.

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0Ganga Aarti at the Ghats

Pandit

Puja on the ghats

I learned something this evening- how good it feels to be in a group. Some people I really
liked, others less so, but it didn’t really matter, the experience was the same. The sense of community and spirituality we feel here in Haridwar will remain etched in my heart as a memorable moment on this trip.

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